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Growing Herbs Directions
Growing your own herbs is easy and fun. You will need a well-drained location, and most herbs like lots of sun. Add a mild compost when preparing the soil and bone meal (makes soil more alkaline), as herbs prefer a neutral pH. Be sure to mulch your plants.
Herbal Propagation
Most common herbs can be propagated by the usual methods of plant propagation such as seeds, cuttings, division or layering.
Herb Seed
Because they are quick and easy to germinate, annuals are quite rewarding to grow from seed. Annuals refer to tender plants that typically live one season, produce seed (bolt) and then decline. Some annuals can be sown directly into the garden under a drip watering line after the last frost date. Plants from the umbelliferae family such as dill and chervil should be sown this way thus discouraging a premature bolting. Other examples of annuals that can be sown this way would include cilantro, rocket, nasturtium, rocket and summer savory. Basil is best seeded into flats (next page) and then transplanted out into the garden.
Annual Herbs often re-seed themselves into the garden and can be transplanted to desirable locations after they develop true leaves.
Biennial Herbs are plants sown in the fall to flower the next spring or Summer. Notable biennials include parsley, caraway, foxglove, mullein and evening primrose. These plants will often act as perennials if the flower stems are clipped before seeding or if the plants do not experience dormancy with freezing weather.
Perennial Herbs can be a bit more challenging than annuals to germinate. They often take more than ten days to germinate and should always be started in seeding flats. Some of the easier varieties to germinate are catnip, English thyme, chives, lemon balm, feverfew, burnet, yarrow motherwort, sage, French sorrel, wormwood, fennel, anise hyssop, Roman chamomile, tansy and lovage. Some perennials can be quite sporting to germinate such as rosemary. These seeds may require special treatments like freezing, sanding, soaking (possibly with bleach), and even cutting notches into the seed coat to help stimulate a timely germination. Mints are not true to their parentage if grown from seed and should only be propagated by division or stem cuttings.
Seeding Herbs
• Seeds should be purchased from reliable seed houses to insure freshness. Store excess seeds in a cool, dark place in an air-tight container
• It’s best to seed into flats with individual plug departments to reduce transplant shock that occurs when roots are pulled apart. Fill the tray with sterile soilless medium that has been purchased at a garden center. The medium should be fine, low in peat and have a neutral pH. Flats should be watered thoroughly before seeding.
• Have labels made up before seeding begins so that you can label as you seed. Two or three seeds should be dropped into each hole(1 5 or so for chives). Try to seed annuals in a separate tray from perennials as they will germinate and need transplanting at different rates. Seeds must be covered as deeply as they are large. In other words, something tiny like Greek oregano is barely covered with medium. Huge seeds, like borage, are covered deeply.
• Seedlings must be watered gently or misted so not to disturb the medium. A rose sprayer will break up the water stream from a hose. It is critical that the plugs stay wet consistently until seeds germinate and establish roots. If they are “soppy” wet they may rot, however if there is no moisture present at the moment of germination, the seedlings will perish. The whole process takes constant attention.
• Typically seeds need warmth to germinate. 70-80 degrees is usually the optimal temperature for germination. Exceptions to this would include violas and larkspur that prefer cooler temperatures around 60 degrees for germination.
• After germination, the seedling need moderate amounts of light immediately. If the seedlings look stretched or washed out, they probably need more light. During this period, the watering is cut back. The seedling should only be watered as the medium approaches drying out. Always check the medium before you water because it can look dry on the top while being quite wet below. Air circulation is also important at this time to prevent wilt or rot from occurring.
Transplanting Herb Seedlings
After the true leaves begin to develop and the roots become sturdy, the plugs are ready to transplant into pots to harden off. The plugs should be removed gently without tearing the roots.
Hardening off occurs when the plants are slowly exposed to the elements. It’s critical that this process is gradual. Even chives, a very hardy plant, will drop dead if exposed to freezing temperatures without an adjustment period. Little seedling are also susceptible to wind and direct sunlight. After a couple of weeks of hardening off, they’re ready to plant into the garden.
Herb Plant Divisions
Some herbs are best multiplied by dividing the roots or crowns during periods of dormancy. In addition to building stock, many older aggressive perennials benefit from the thinning out every few years. Good examples would include tansy, bee balm, silver king Artemesia, lemon balm, catnip, yarrows, mints, low growing oreganos, creeping thymes and lemon grass.
Start by digging up the whole plant and clean up dead stems and flowers. Often pieces can be pulled apart with crown and root attached. Sometimes it is necessary to cut pieces out. Replant and keep moist until new signs of growth are apparent.
Layering Herbs to Propogate
This is a simple process of pegging down stems to the soil and letting nature take its course as these stems produce roots. After roots are sturdy, the offshoot can be transplanted. Easier than cuttings, layering can help build stock of woody perennials or plants that are not easily divided. Try rosemary, upright thymes, sages, bay and lavender.
Herbs Grown from Cuttings
Stern cuttings are a fast and effective way of reproducing herbs while keeping their original, desirable traits.
1. Take tip cutting from non-flowering plants. Select strong pieces that would snap if bent severely. Cut 3-5” lengths.
2. Make a clean cut that will include a leaf node below the soil line of the cutting tray.
3. Woody varieties should be dipped into a rooting hormone before planting.
4. Use sand or a medium containing mostly perlite for cuttings. Plant firmly to one third the depth of the cutting. Label flats clearly with the date that cuttings were taken.
5. Cutting should be kept in 70-80 degree temperatures with constant moisture. Covering tray with a plastic bag will create a humid microclimate. Keep cutting out of the direct sunlight.
6. Cut down watering after roots develop. These tip cuttings will be tender and should be hardened off before being exposed to the elements.
©2006-2012 Swan Creek Farm
The statements made have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Our products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. The statements on this website are based principally on traditional knowledge accumulated over thousands of years of Chinese medical practices.
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